Siena, Italy

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Siena is a city in Tuscany, Italy.

Siena was an Etruscan settlement and a small Roman town, the seat of a Christian bishop by the 5th century, but its importance began in the early 12th century, when a self-governing commune replaced the earlier aristocratic government. The consuls who governed the republic slowly became more inclusive of the poblani or common people, and the Commune increased its territory as the surrounding feudal nobles in their fortified castles submitted to the urban power. Siena's republic, struggling internally between nobles and the popular party, usually worked in political opposition to its great rival, Florence, and was in the 13th century predominantly Ghibelline in opposition to Florence's Guelph position (the backdrop for Dante's Commedia)

Its university, famed for its faculties of law and medicine, was founded in 1203. Siena also rivalled Florence in the arts throughout the medieval period; the important late medieval or early renaissance painter Duccio (1253-1319) was a Senese, but worked across the peninsula, and the mural of "Good Government" by Ambrogio Lorenzetti in the Palazzo Pubblico, or town hall, is a magnificent example of late-Medieval/early Renaissance-art as well as a representation of the utopia of urban society as conceived during that period. Siena was devastated by the Black Plague of 1348 and never recovered its earlier glory, losing out to Florence in inter-urban rivalry. Siena retained its independence in Tuscany until 1557.

Siena's University is still among the most important Italian universities, and the picturesque city remains an important cultural centre, specially for humanist disciplines.

Siena's cathedral, begun in the 12th century, is one of the great examples of Italian gothic architecture. Its main facade was completed in 1380. Its campanile and baptistry make a fine group. Inside is the famous Gothic octagonal pulpit by Nicola Pisano (1266 - 1268) supported on lions, and the labyrinth inlaid in the flooring, traversed by penitents on their knees. Beneath the Duomo, in the baptistry is the baptismala marvellous font with bas-reliefs by Donatello, Ghiberti, Jacopo della Quercia and other 15th-century sculptors. The Museum of the Opera del Duomo contains Duccio's famous Madonna (1308 - 1311).

The shell-shaped Piazza del Campo, the town square, is another architectural treasure and is famous for hosting the Palio.

Il Palio

The Palio delle contrade is a horse race held twice each year, in which the horse and rider represent one of the seventeen contrade, city wards. Both horse and rider are dressed in the colours and arms of the wards: Aquila (Eagle), Bruco (Caterpillar), Chiocciola (Snail), Civetta (Owl), Drago (Dragon), Giraffa (Giraffe), Istrice (Porcupine), Leocorno (Unicorn), Lupa (She-Wolf), Nicchio (Shell), Oca (Goose), Onda (Wave), Pantera (Panther), Selva (Forest), Tartuca (Tortoise), Torre (Tower) and Valdimontone (Ram)

The two races, held on July 2 (Palio di Provenzano) and August 16 (Palio dell'Assunta), consist of only 10 horses, which means that only ten of the city wards can take part in the palio on ony single occasion.

The race itself runs thrice round the Piazza del Campo, the outer course of which is covered with several inches of dirt for the occasion. The riders, or fantini, ride the horses bareback from the starting line, where there's only place for 9 horses. The 10th, the rincorsa, stands behind those nine. The start is given by a local authority called Mossiere, that has to wait for all the horses being in the correct position; when this moment is (with great difficulty) achieved, he activates a mechanism that instantly removes the canapo, the starting chord.

On the dangerous track, on which several riders and horses have died, the riders are allowed to use their whips not only for their own horse, but also for disturbing other horses and riders. The winner is the first horse to cross the finish line with its head ornaments intact - the rider does not necessarily need to finish, and often does not.

The winner is awarded a banner of painted silk, called palio. The enthusiasm after the victory, however, is so extreme that the ceremony of attribution of the Palio is quite instantaneous, being the first moment of a months-long celebration for the winning ward.

After the race, a certain curiosity might traditionally regard the result of the bets that the inhabitants of each contrada (Contradaioli) made about the Palio; frequently, the losers have to publicly perform funny actions.

The race is usually preceded by a spectacular exhibition of Alfieri, flag-wavers, in medieval costumes.

Although often contested, there is no serious evidence that horses are treated with drugs before the race. Some more concrete suspects usually regard the eventual corruption of some fantini.

There have been loud complaints about horses mistreatment, damages and even deaths, especially from the animalist associations and even from some veterinaries. In the Palio held on August 16, 2004 the horse for the contrada Bruco (caterpillar) fell and was badly stamped as the race was not stopped, despite possible additional safety risks for other horses. The horse died of its injuries, raising further complaints from animal rights organizations.