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Eiger

Eiger Elevation: 3,970 metres (13,025 ft) Latitude: 46° 35′ N Longitude: 8° 00′ E Location: Switzerland Range: Bernese Oberland First ascent: August 11, 1858 Easiest route: basic rock/snow/ice climb

The Eiger is a mountain in the Alps of Switzerland. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends to the Mönch (4,099 m) and across the Jungfraujoch to the Jungfrau (4,158 m). The peak is mentioned in records dating back to the 13th century but there is no clear indication of how exactly the peak gained its name. The name has been linked to the Greek term akros meaning "sharp" or "pointed", but more commonly to the German eigen, meaning characteristic.

The spectacular north face of the Eiger towers over 1,800 m (5,900 ft) above the valley in the Bernese Oberland below and has claimed the lives of many climbers attempting to conquer this difficult face. A portion of the upper face is called "The White Spider", as snow filled cracks radiating from an ice-field resemble the legs of a spider.

The first ascent of the Eiger was made by Swiss guides Christian Almer, Peter Bohren and Irishman Charles Barrington on August 11, 1858. The north face was first climbed on July 24, 1938 by Heinrich Harrer, Andreas Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg and Fritz Kasparek of a German-Austrian expedition.

Timeline

• 1858: First ascent.
• 1871: First ascent by the southwest ridge.
• 1921: On September 10, first ascent by the Mittellegi ridge.
• 1924: First ski ascent via the Eiger glacier.
• 1932: First ascent via the Lauper route on the NE face.
• 1934: First attempt on the north face by Willy Beck, Kurt Löwinger and Georg Löwinger reaching 2,900m.
• 1935: First attempt on north face by the Germans Karl Mehringer and Max Sedlmeyer. They froze to death at 3,300m, a place now known as "Death Bivouac".
• 1936: Four Austrian-German climbers, Hinterstoisser, Kurz, Angerer and Rainer, died on the north face in severe weather conditions during a retreat from Death Bivouac.
• 1938: First ascent of north face (three days).
• 1950: First ascent of north face in a single day.
• 1961: First winter ascent of the north face by Toni Kinshofer, Anderl Mannhardt and Toni Hiebeler.
• 1963: First solo ascent of the north face by Michel Darbellay.
• 1964: German Daisy Voog becomes the first woman to summit via the north face.
• 1970: First ski descent, on the west flank.

Since 1935, over 50 climbers have died attempting the north face.

References

• Heinrich Harrer, The White Spider: the history of the Eiger's north face, translated from German, London 1959 (revised 1965, 1979).